Photographing Wildlife from a Canoe
The boat
It is from the canoe that I do most of my photographing. In fact, I learned to use my SLR cameras on
the water. My boat is a solo canoe, a Wenonah Vagabond made from lightweight Kevlar material. It is
15 1/2 ft in length and at its widest, about 29 inches. The advantage of a solo over a tandem canoe is it
is easier to maneuver and it is much lighter. I've had only a couple experiences photographing in a
tandem while sitting at the bow and frankly, it just doesn't work. The only way it could work is if the other
person is serving only as your engine; but still, you do not have total control of the boat. Having total
control of your boat is essential to photographing from a canoe and the solo canoe is the only way to do
that. You could go out by yourself in a tandem, but you have a cumbersome boat that is much more
difficult to control and maneuver around tight spots.
The other advantage of a light solo canoe is that you can get into very shallow water without getting
stuck. This became very clear to me on Florida Bay near Flamingo, which is a big mud flat at low tide.
The mud is like quicksand and you can sink in it up to your neck, so getting out of the boat is not an
option. This is why you never want to get stuck. If you do, you have only the option of waiting for an
incoming tide, which can take hours. In the solo canoe, I can drift in 1/2-in water, allowing me close
access to the birds that feed on the mud bars.
Canoe vs kayak
The boat you feel the most comfortable being in is the right one. However, the canoe provides some
advantage over the touring sit-inside kayak. The canoe is roomier and I can have all my camera
equipment in front of me safely inside a large pelican case. The high profile of the canoe and the canoe
paddle minimize the water contact. In the kayak, you are closer to the water and kayak paddles are
drippier. In addition, the canoe paddle is easier for maneuvering in tight areas and when I am holding the
camera in one hand and needing to shift the boat slightly with the paddle. On the other hand, the kayak
feels more stable, which may be where you draw the line. The bottom line is, you can photograph from
either, depending on you.
For photography, the kayak might have one advantage over the canoe and that is the low sitting
position. The low vantage point is a nice touch especially for photographing wading birds. But, I often get
into areas with wading birds where I can park the boat in one spot for a length of time. Whenever
possible, I simply seat myself on the hull, giving me that low perspective, just like in a kayak. On the
other hand, I often photograph birds nesting in trees. For these subjects, I want a higher perspective and
the canoe offers me a bit more of that than a kayak. Thus, the canoe provides me options that the
kayak does not.
The paddles
Not only is the vehicle important but your paddles are crucial to good photography. I use a very light
weight 10-oz (Kevlar) bent shaft ZRE paddle. For long paddles and for maneuvering into a position for a
photograph, the light weight paddle is perfect. The best part is that it is silent when passing through the
water. This is key to getting close to your subjects. I carry an extra paddle and often use a cheap plastic
retractable paddle for pushing off sand or oyster bars.
Advantages of photography from a boat vs land
The advantages of photographing from a canoe, compared to land are many. Some of these
advantages are specific to my situation, but they may apply to you as well:
Keeping the equipment safe
Frankly, I am more scared for my lens and camera’s life on a beach than when in my canoe. Sand is
lethal to a lens and I don’t care how careful you are, your lens and camera will come in contact with sand.
I suppose the greatest fear anyone has concerning photography in a boat is dropping the camera in the
water. No doubt, if I drop my camera or lens into the salt water, they are pretty much history. But, what
are the chances of that happening? Here are some possibilities to help put this into perspective:
Tongue firmly in cheek, my point here is that any risk of losing your camera from a watery death is
almost always the result of severe human error. Yes, we do make mistakes and sometimes we make
them in our zealous attempts to photograph something special. I have learned a few rules along the way
and here they are:
Know your tides
Most of the areas I paddle are tidal. The tides greatly affect the currents and the wildlife. At low tide early
in the morning, the birds will be out feeding in the shallow flats and this is when I want to be on the water.
Tides will have a great impact on your ability to photograph wildlife from optimal points of view. In a
nutshell, I want low tide for wading birds and high tide for nesting birds.
Work the currents or let the current (and the wind) do the work for you
Be mindful of the direction of the current and the wind, and set up your photo opportunities accordingly.
This is a bit tricky to describe, but I’ll use one example (see diagram below). After launching I
immediately head south in the bay toward an oyster bed full of white pelicans. I know that the tidal
current is moving westerly so I stay a few hundred feet east of the birds. Before getting directly in line
with the birds I stop paddling and get my camera ready. The morning sunrise is perfectly located to my
back as I direct the bow of my canoe in the direction of the birds and start drifting forward with the
current. I allow myself enough distance so I have time to get my camera ready as the current brings me
closer to the birds. I line up the canoe so that I don’t drift directly toward the skittish birds, but off about
20 or so feet so that I can drift at a comfortable distance. As soon as I am close enough, I anchor. To
move in closer, I keep my paddle low profile and basically use it only to change direction ever so slightly.
When you are working with the current, always get into a position that provides you the best lighting.
Using the diagram below as a reference, what would I do if the current was heading in the opposite
direction? Because I want the sun to my back when I am shooting birds on the water, I would line
myself up north by northwest of the bird and paddle directly south until I reach a comfortable distance.
Then I would allow the current to move my boat backward to keep the sun behind me. This is when
anchoring would be the best option.
Sometimes you have the wind that overrides the tidal current. If that’s the case, you will likely have
choppy water as well, making photographing very difficult. I typically avoid those days when the wind will
be greater than 10-15 knots. If the wind and tides are working together, the current can sometimes be
too fast depending on the water depth, making it impossible to maneuver the boat to an optimal spot. If I
can, I often use both a stake out pole and an anchor, adding more stability to the boat.
It is from the canoe that I do most of my photographing. In fact, I learned to use my SLR cameras on
the water. My boat is a solo canoe, a Wenonah Vagabond made from lightweight Kevlar material. It is
15 1/2 ft in length and at its widest, about 29 inches. The advantage of a solo over a tandem canoe is it
is easier to maneuver and it is much lighter. I've had only a couple experiences photographing in a
tandem while sitting at the bow and frankly, it just doesn't work. The only way it could work is if the other
person is serving only as your engine; but still, you do not have total control of the boat. Having total
control of your boat is essential to photographing from a canoe and the solo canoe is the only way to do
that. You could go out by yourself in a tandem, but you have a cumbersome boat that is much more
difficult to control and maneuver around tight spots.
The other advantage of a light solo canoe is that you can get into very shallow water without getting
stuck. This became very clear to me on Florida Bay near Flamingo, which is a big mud flat at low tide.
The mud is like quicksand and you can sink in it up to your neck, so getting out of the boat is not an
option. This is why you never want to get stuck. If you do, you have only the option of waiting for an
incoming tide, which can take hours. In the solo canoe, I can drift in 1/2-in water, allowing me close
access to the birds that feed on the mud bars.
Canoe vs kayak
The boat you feel the most comfortable being in is the right one. However, the canoe provides some
advantage over the touring sit-inside kayak. The canoe is roomier and I can have all my camera
equipment in front of me safely inside a large pelican case. The high profile of the canoe and the canoe
paddle minimize the water contact. In the kayak, you are closer to the water and kayak paddles are
drippier. In addition, the canoe paddle is easier for maneuvering in tight areas and when I am holding the
camera in one hand and needing to shift the boat slightly with the paddle. On the other hand, the kayak
feels more stable, which may be where you draw the line. The bottom line is, you can photograph from
either, depending on you.
For photography, the kayak might have one advantage over the canoe and that is the low sitting
position. The low vantage point is a nice touch especially for photographing wading birds. But, I often get
into areas with wading birds where I can park the boat in one spot for a length of time. Whenever
possible, I simply seat myself on the hull, giving me that low perspective, just like in a kayak. On the
other hand, I often photograph birds nesting in trees. For these subjects, I want a higher perspective and
the canoe offers me a bit more of that than a kayak. Thus, the canoe provides me options that the
kayak does not.
The paddles
Not only is the vehicle important but your paddles are crucial to good photography. I use a very light
weight 10-oz (Kevlar) bent shaft ZRE paddle. For long paddles and for maneuvering into a position for a
photograph, the light weight paddle is perfect. The best part is that it is silent when passing through the
water. This is key to getting close to your subjects. I carry an extra paddle and often use a cheap plastic
retractable paddle for pushing off sand or oyster bars.
Advantages of photography from a boat vs land
The advantages of photographing from a canoe, compared to land are many. Some of these
advantages are specific to my situation, but they may apply to you as well:
- Living in Miami, I am surrounded by water. You can easily find accessible areas to explore by boat.
- I like being alone when I photograph. While dozens of photographers with their tripods and bazooka-
size lenses are lined up along the Anhinga Trail, I am wandering around Biscayne Bay surrounded
only by the birds and other wildlife. Don’t get me wrong, photographing at hotspots like Anhinga
Trail and Fort DeSoto is fun and offers fantastic photo opportunities. But what I see on the water
has a unique quality to it. - I can explore and photograph at the same time. When I am not photographing, I am paddling
around looking for photos. I can see most of the Everglades or I can explore the entire coastline of
Biscayne Bay from my canoe. - I am comfortable in the canoe while sitting when photographing. I often use a monopod that takes
the pressure off my shoulders and arms. - I can sit very low in the canoe, which provides me appealing low angle shots for water birds and
other wildlife in the water. - I don’t have to lug all my equipment around on my back or shoulder. I have everything I need
within reach and have access to water and food at all times. - Simply being on the water is soothing and peaceful.
Keeping the equipment safe
Frankly, I am more scared for my lens and camera’s life on a beach than when in my canoe. Sand is
lethal to a lens and I don’t care how careful you are, your lens and camera will come in contact with sand.
I suppose the greatest fear anyone has concerning photography in a boat is dropping the camera in the
water. No doubt, if I drop my camera or lens into the salt water, they are pretty much history. But, what
are the chances of that happening? Here are some possibilities to help put this into perspective:
- You are paddling in > 2 ft waves and a rogue wave comes up over the bow and crashes down on
you and your camera. - You are paddling in > 2 ft waves and a rogue wave comes out of nowhere and tips your boat over.
- You are attempting to photograph a roseate spoonbill as your boat passes it. As you float further
away, you stretch over the side of the boat in attempt to photograph the bird, thus causing the boat
to tip over. - You see a nesting osprey and her two young chicks high above in the mangrove canopies. In an
attempt to get a better angle shot, you stand up in the canoe and promptly lose your balance and
tip over into the water, with camera and lens in hand.
Tongue firmly in cheek, my point here is that any risk of losing your camera from a watery death is
almost always the result of severe human error. Yes, we do make mistakes and sometimes we make
them in our zealous attempts to photograph something special. I have learned a few rules along the way
and here they are:
- If the waves are high, put away the camera; you can’t really take serious photographs in such
conditions anyway. - Have the camera strap around your neck at all times when the camera is out.
- Use a lens hood at all times, it helps shield it from water spray.
- Know your boat intimately. Know what it feels like to lean heavily over to the side, or to shift your
weight forward or backward. Remember, the weight of your camera and lens shifts your center of
gravity. - Use a pelican case. My experience with dry bags on multi-day paddling trips is that they do not
keep the camera equipment completely dry, moisture does get inside the bag. - Keep a couple lens clothes on hand, one in pocket, one in pelican case. If the cloth comes in
contact with salt water it’s no longer useable, so have a spare available. - Know when not to photograph. Because of a potentially precarious situation, sometimes you have
to let some photo opportunities go.
Know your tides
Most of the areas I paddle are tidal. The tides greatly affect the currents and the wildlife. At low tide early
in the morning, the birds will be out feeding in the shallow flats and this is when I want to be on the water.
Tides will have a great impact on your ability to photograph wildlife from optimal points of view. In a
nutshell, I want low tide for wading birds and high tide for nesting birds.
Work the currents or let the current (and the wind) do the work for you
Be mindful of the direction of the current and the wind, and set up your photo opportunities accordingly.
This is a bit tricky to describe, but I’ll use one example (see diagram below). After launching I
immediately head south in the bay toward an oyster bed full of white pelicans. I know that the tidal
current is moving westerly so I stay a few hundred feet east of the birds. Before getting directly in line
with the birds I stop paddling and get my camera ready. The morning sunrise is perfectly located to my
back as I direct the bow of my canoe in the direction of the birds and start drifting forward with the
current. I allow myself enough distance so I have time to get my camera ready as the current brings me
closer to the birds. I line up the canoe so that I don’t drift directly toward the skittish birds, but off about
20 or so feet so that I can drift at a comfortable distance. As soon as I am close enough, I anchor. To
move in closer, I keep my paddle low profile and basically use it only to change direction ever so slightly.
When you are working with the current, always get into a position that provides you the best lighting.
Using the diagram below as a reference, what would I do if the current was heading in the opposite
direction? Because I want the sun to my back when I am shooting birds on the water, I would line
myself up north by northwest of the bird and paddle directly south until I reach a comfortable distance.
Then I would allow the current to move my boat backward to keep the sun behind me. This is when
anchoring would be the best option.
Sometimes you have the wind that overrides the tidal current. If that’s the case, you will likely have
choppy water as well, making photographing very difficult. I typically avoid those days when the wind will
be greater than 10-15 knots. If the wind and tides are working together, the current can sometimes be
too fast depending on the water depth, making it impossible to maneuver the boat to an optimal spot. If I
can, I often use both a stake out pole and an anchor, adding more stability to the boat.
Using a stake-out pole as an anchor is a useful technique when
photographing in shallow waters.
photographing in shallow waters.
The canoe has a higher profile than a kayak, keeping you and
your equipment drier.
your equipment drier.
The numerous oyster shell bed in certain areas of the
Everglades can challenge your canoeing skills but can also
provide you many photo opportunities when the birds are
feeding at low tide. Watch for those sharp shells sticking out
of the water!
Everglades can challenge your canoeing skills but can also
provide you many photo opportunities when the birds are
feeding at low tide. Watch for those sharp shells sticking out
of the water!
Not the ideal position to be in. I had been sitting in that spot
for a couple hours at the bird rookery. I decided to stretch my
legs a bit in between photographs. Now a days, I use a
monopod, especially when the flash is attached to give my
arms and shoulders a break.
for a couple hours at the bird rookery. I decided to stretch my
legs a bit in between photographs. Now a days, I use a
monopod, especially when the flash is attached to give my
arms and shoulders a break.
Sometimes, you just have to get out of the boat.
Summer storms are almost daily here in south Florida and
they can come up on you without a moment's notice.
Typically, I'm off the water before noon while these storm
clouds begin to form in the horizon.
they can come up on you without a moment's notice.
Typically, I'm off the water before noon while these storm
clouds begin to form in the horizon.
From my canoe, I can access some bird rookeries on
Biscayne Bay and in the Everglades.
Biscayne Bay and in the Everglades.
| All Rights Reserved. Copyright Constance Mier, 2007-10 |
Summer storms, the bugs and the heat
It always feels cooler when you are on the water but the summer days can be very hot and humid here
in south Florida. Subtract any amount of breeze and it can be miserable by late morning, even when
you are in the middle of a bay. If you are doing this in the summer, plan on getting out on the water at
sunrise and be off the water by noon.
Likewise in the summer, you typically have less of a breeze which means more opportunity for
mosquitoes and no-see-ums. You generally don’t have a problem with them while on the water, but get
close to the mangroves and they will be there more often than not. Where they do let their presence
known is at the launch site, so be prepared when unloading your boat and gear. I use Deet, but I never
spray directly on my skin. I always wear long sleeves, a bandana to cover my neck (sometimes a buff
to cover my face), long pants and shoes to cover my feet. I wear quick drying nylon clothing and
always have a couple of pockets to stash lip balm and a lens cloth. The nylon (fishing clothing) keeps
me cooler, and protects me from the sun and the bugs. Likewise, I always wear a wide-brimmed hat.
Sunscreen is essential and I usually re-apply after a few hours.
Approaching wildlife
In addition to keeping your equipment dry, there are other challenges that come with photographing
from a canoe, some of these are specifically related to wildlife. Not unique to photography from a canoe
is the inherent rule to know your subject well. Sometimes, you have to spend hours in the field
observing and not photographing. Patience is a necessity to good wildlife photography.
Unique to photography from a canoe is that to a wild animal, you and your boat become one large
predator. Approaching animals in a boat is a skill and quite often, I cannot approach an animal without
scaring it away. Many times, my decision to photograph is based entirely on the ethical treatment of
the animal. If there is any indication that a bird will fly off (and thus, provide me a beautiful flight shot), I
will hold back. I have learned many things about various types of birds and other wildlife; which are
most easily spooked, under what conditions wildlife are more likely to scare off, and so on. Part of the
learning is to simply let go of a photograph for the sake of leaving the animal be. On the other hand, the
learning process has provided me so many more wildlife encounters and better shots of wildlife behavior
that I would not be able to capture if it were not for this learning process and the innate desire to simply
observe wildlife for hours in their habitat.
As soon as the animal notices you, it may fly or run away; this depends on how close you are and what
the animal is doing. On many occasions, I see yellowcrown nightherons feeding on bait crab in the
shallow flats. They generally let me get relatively close (sometimes within 20-25 ft). Ibises, which are
usually in numbers, are similar in that way. To the contrary, the great blue heron and great white egret
seem to spot a moving canoe a mile away and will promptly fly away. I find that the amount of distance
I need to keep between my boat and my subject depends on the subject and what it is doing at the
time. If wading birds are feeding, often times you can get relatively close if you stop frequently, are
very quiet and move slowly. The birds will notice you and will move away from you, but often, they
will get use to you and eventually come back. The key is to wait them out, silently. They are hungry
and will continue feeding as long as they do not feel threatened by you. I know very little about wildlife,
but what I do know for sure is their behavior can be unpredictable. For instance, I came up on a great
white egret fishing the shallow flats on Biscayne Bay. I was using a prime lens at the time and
positioned myself about 75-ft or so away from it. All of a sudden, the bird came toward me and got
right up to my boat to check it out. If I had used a zoom lens, I might have captured the unusual scene!
If you approach a flock of birds that are simply resting on a mud flat or oyster bed, or in the mangrove
trees, they are more easily scared away. One or two of them will notice you right away and will alert
the others by flying away. You may find yourself approaching a flock of white pelicans but the closer
you get, the fewer the number of birds in your sight as they begin to fly or swim away. On these
occasions I paddle up to the edge of the flock's comfort zone; as soon as one or two fly away, I stop
and wait. Please, do not use fear as a means of capturing birds in flight!
Without going into too many details, here are some good tips for helping you to get some close up
wildlife shots from a boat:
Use an anchor when possible
I use both a stake-out pole and an anchor. Often, I use only one or the other. In Chokoloskee Bay, I'm
usually needing to anchor on an oyster bed, which makes use of the stake out pole near impossible. I
cannot get enough ground to anchor the pole because of hard oyster shells or the water may be too
deep for my 4-ft pole. This is when anchoring becomes necessary. I have a tow line on the bow and
another on the stern of the boat. Before launching, I connect the two lines. I keep the line somewhat
slack so that I can raise it over my head from side to side. I attach the anchor, which has two
carabiners to the line. Ideally, I want the bow to be heading toward the subject. Depending on the
current, I may attach the anchor in front of me if I want the anchor off the bow end, or attach it behind
me if the anchor will be on the stern side. And I have a choice to attach from my left or my right. For
increased stability with tricky currents and wind, I may be able to use both anchor and stake out pole.
Using the anchor and stake out pole to position a canoe for photographing takes practice and often,
more than one attempt to get it right. Yet another option is in the case when it is shallow enough that I
can plant a foot on the ground to hold the boat in place.
Use continuous focus
Most of the time, you and your boat are moving. When I am focusing on a subject, within a fraction of
a second it will be out of focus as long as my boat is moving. Using continuous focus helps the
focusing. In continuous focus mode, I am also ready for those frequent flight shots that seem to come
out of nowhere. When I am not moving, I will switch to auto focus. This happens occasionally in
shallow waters when my boat is on ground or the water is calm enough that there is no movement.
The other challenge is getting a straight horizon. This can be corrected with software, but I prefer to
minimize the amount of cropping and try to get that straight line while shooting. When you look on the
horizon and you have mangrove shorelines to your left and right converging toward a middle point, it is
quite difficult to make the photo look right when there is really no straight line in front of you.
Stay comfortable while out there
I already mentioned the type of clothing I wear and that the goal is to protect my skin from bugs, sun
and heat. I also like to stay relatively dry, so nylon clothing is essential for that. My feet will not stay
dry for obvious reasons but I always wear rubber-soled water shoes that cover my toes. I do that for 2
reasons; to protect my feet from the sun and to protect them from the oyster shells on the occasion that
I step out of the boat.
I bring a small cooler with beverages and snacks, and eat frequently throughout the day. Staying
hydrated and maintaining blood glucose are two important considerations when you are out there
paddling for several hours in the hot sun. Remember, low blood sugar and dehydration can cause you
to shake, not conducive to sharp focusing! One last point, I wear polarized sunglasses, which protect
my eyes from the sun but also allows me to see into the water.
Getting quality photographs
Will I ever capture a National Geographic photograph from a canoe? All else being equal, the chances of
that happening from a boat are less than from land, as illustrated here.
Consider the following points:
Once you accept these challenges as part of the uniqueness to photographing from a canoe, you begin
to figure out ways to overcome them. Here are some ways that I have done this:
For the future
I want to supplement my boat with an outrigger. I found that since photographing bird rookeries, I am
missing a high vantage point afforded in a larger flats boat or when standing. On occasion, I have been
able to stand in the water on Biscayne Bay while photographing the rookery, but this is not always
possible. I thought about taking a ladder out there and setting it up in the water, but haven't got the
nerve yet to try it. So, I decided that I might be able to stand still in the boat while holding the camera
or using a monopod if I had outriggers attached to the canoe. I am hoping to experiment with this soon.
It always feels cooler when you are on the water but the summer days can be very hot and humid here
in south Florida. Subtract any amount of breeze and it can be miserable by late morning, even when
you are in the middle of a bay. If you are doing this in the summer, plan on getting out on the water at
sunrise and be off the water by noon.
Likewise in the summer, you typically have less of a breeze which means more opportunity for
mosquitoes and no-see-ums. You generally don’t have a problem with them while on the water, but get
close to the mangroves and they will be there more often than not. Where they do let their presence
known is at the launch site, so be prepared when unloading your boat and gear. I use Deet, but I never
spray directly on my skin. I always wear long sleeves, a bandana to cover my neck (sometimes a buff
to cover my face), long pants and shoes to cover my feet. I wear quick drying nylon clothing and
always have a couple of pockets to stash lip balm and a lens cloth. The nylon (fishing clothing) keeps
me cooler, and protects me from the sun and the bugs. Likewise, I always wear a wide-brimmed hat.
Sunscreen is essential and I usually re-apply after a few hours.
Approaching wildlife
In addition to keeping your equipment dry, there are other challenges that come with photographing
from a canoe, some of these are specifically related to wildlife. Not unique to photography from a canoe
is the inherent rule to know your subject well. Sometimes, you have to spend hours in the field
observing and not photographing. Patience is a necessity to good wildlife photography.
Unique to photography from a canoe is that to a wild animal, you and your boat become one large
predator. Approaching animals in a boat is a skill and quite often, I cannot approach an animal without
scaring it away. Many times, my decision to photograph is based entirely on the ethical treatment of
the animal. If there is any indication that a bird will fly off (and thus, provide me a beautiful flight shot), I
will hold back. I have learned many things about various types of birds and other wildlife; which are
most easily spooked, under what conditions wildlife are more likely to scare off, and so on. Part of the
learning is to simply let go of a photograph for the sake of leaving the animal be. On the other hand, the
learning process has provided me so many more wildlife encounters and better shots of wildlife behavior
that I would not be able to capture if it were not for this learning process and the innate desire to simply
observe wildlife for hours in their habitat.
As soon as the animal notices you, it may fly or run away; this depends on how close you are and what
the animal is doing. On many occasions, I see yellowcrown nightherons feeding on bait crab in the
shallow flats. They generally let me get relatively close (sometimes within 20-25 ft). Ibises, which are
usually in numbers, are similar in that way. To the contrary, the great blue heron and great white egret
seem to spot a moving canoe a mile away and will promptly fly away. I find that the amount of distance
I need to keep between my boat and my subject depends on the subject and what it is doing at the
time. If wading birds are feeding, often times you can get relatively close if you stop frequently, are
very quiet and move slowly. The birds will notice you and will move away from you, but often, they
will get use to you and eventually come back. The key is to wait them out, silently. They are hungry
and will continue feeding as long as they do not feel threatened by you. I know very little about wildlife,
but what I do know for sure is their behavior can be unpredictable. For instance, I came up on a great
white egret fishing the shallow flats on Biscayne Bay. I was using a prime lens at the time and
positioned myself about 75-ft or so away from it. All of a sudden, the bird came toward me and got
right up to my boat to check it out. If I had used a zoom lens, I might have captured the unusual scene!
If you approach a flock of birds that are simply resting on a mud flat or oyster bed, or in the mangrove
trees, they are more easily scared away. One or two of them will notice you right away and will alert
the others by flying away. You may find yourself approaching a flock of white pelicans but the closer
you get, the fewer the number of birds in your sight as they begin to fly or swim away. On these
occasions I paddle up to the edge of the flock's comfort zone; as soon as one or two fly away, I stop
and wait. Please, do not use fear as a means of capturing birds in flight!
Without going into too many details, here are some good tips for helping you to get some close up
wildlife shots from a boat:
- Water moves. Know your currents and set up your shots accordingly. Sometimes you are
pushed toward a subject, sometimes you are pushed away from it. Learn how to maneuver your
boat to work the currents for the best shots. - If you spot an animal from a distance and want to approach it, stop and watch for a minute before
approaching. Get your equipment ready (metering, etc) before approaching the animal to minimize
noise and movement. Get yourself oriented to the best position according to water current and
lighting. Most of the time, the best way to approach your subject may not be the shortest straight
line. - Minimize your paddle use and keep a low profile as you approach the animal.
- If the current is drawing you toward the animal, begin your approach at a far enough distance to
allow a safe and slow approach. Likewise, if the current is taking you away from the animal,
paddle around to the other side giving the animal a wide enough berth. - Here in Florida, many wildlife shots are wading birds in shallow water. This affords me the
opportunity to anchor the boat and stay in one spot.
Use an anchor when possible
I use both a stake-out pole and an anchor. Often, I use only one or the other. In Chokoloskee Bay, I'm
usually needing to anchor on an oyster bed, which makes use of the stake out pole near impossible. I
cannot get enough ground to anchor the pole because of hard oyster shells or the water may be too
deep for my 4-ft pole. This is when anchoring becomes necessary. I have a tow line on the bow and
another on the stern of the boat. Before launching, I connect the two lines. I keep the line somewhat
slack so that I can raise it over my head from side to side. I attach the anchor, which has two
carabiners to the line. Ideally, I want the bow to be heading toward the subject. Depending on the
current, I may attach the anchor in front of me if I want the anchor off the bow end, or attach it behind
me if the anchor will be on the stern side. And I have a choice to attach from my left or my right. For
increased stability with tricky currents and wind, I may be able to use both anchor and stake out pole.
Using the anchor and stake out pole to position a canoe for photographing takes practice and often,
more than one attempt to get it right. Yet another option is in the case when it is shallow enough that I
can plant a foot on the ground to hold the boat in place.
Use continuous focus
Most of the time, you and your boat are moving. When I am focusing on a subject, within a fraction of
a second it will be out of focus as long as my boat is moving. Using continuous focus helps the
focusing. In continuous focus mode, I am also ready for those frequent flight shots that seem to come
out of nowhere. When I am not moving, I will switch to auto focus. This happens occasionally in
shallow waters when my boat is on ground or the water is calm enough that there is no movement.
The other challenge is getting a straight horizon. This can be corrected with software, but I prefer to
minimize the amount of cropping and try to get that straight line while shooting. When you look on the
horizon and you have mangrove shorelines to your left and right converging toward a middle point, it is
quite difficult to make the photo look right when there is really no straight line in front of you.
Stay comfortable while out there
I already mentioned the type of clothing I wear and that the goal is to protect my skin from bugs, sun
and heat. I also like to stay relatively dry, so nylon clothing is essential for that. My feet will not stay
dry for obvious reasons but I always wear rubber-soled water shoes that cover my toes. I do that for 2
reasons; to protect my feet from the sun and to protect them from the oyster shells on the occasion that
I step out of the boat.
I bring a small cooler with beverages and snacks, and eat frequently throughout the day. Staying
hydrated and maintaining blood glucose are two important considerations when you are out there
paddling for several hours in the hot sun. Remember, low blood sugar and dehydration can cause you
to shake, not conducive to sharp focusing! One last point, I wear polarized sunglasses, which protect
my eyes from the sun but also allows me to see into the water.
Getting quality photographs
Will I ever capture a National Geographic photograph from a canoe? All else being equal, the chances of
that happening from a boat are less than from land, as illustrated here.
Consider the following points:
- It is more difficult to stabilize a camera in a boat than to stabilize it on land. Despite Sony's high
quality in-camera image stabilization system, I will never achieve the same consistency in high
quality sharpness that a photographer shooting from land and using a heavy tripod can achieve.
On average, land shots have an advantage in my opinion. But, if you examine the curve above,
you can see from the hatched area that a high percentage of quality photos can be shot from the
canoe. However, to achieve these high quality photos, I have to overcome some extra obstacles
and practice more! Photographing from a canoe has forced me to practice my skills and
systemically find ways to improve them. - I often cannot get the best perspective or field of view that I could on land. For instance,
sometimes we want the lowest angle for shooting a shore or wading bird. From my canoe, I
cannot get as low as a photographer laying on the ground. - I sometimes cannot control the boat for optimal photos. This is usually due to water current and
wind but also the fact that the boat takes up space or the water is too shallow. Whatever the
reason, I sometimes cannot get close enough, or into the best lighting or field of view for the best
shot. It’s easier on land when it is just your body and you can stand firmly on ground.
Once you accept these challenges as part of the uniqueness to photographing from a canoe, you begin
to figure out ways to overcome them. Here are some ways that I have done this:
- I began using a monopod which seems to help with focus and sharpness and I have learned to
brace myself better and stay within the center of the boat for increased stabilization. - I have learned to work with my anchor and stake out pole which help to minimize movement of
the boat. - I spend a great deal of time paddling the waters in south Florida throughout the entire year. This
has given me insight into wildlife behaviors and locations for photographing them from the water.
For instance, I found a brown pelican and great white egret rookery coming back from one of my
camping trips in the Everglades. Since then, I have visited the rookery several times.
For the future
I want to supplement my boat with an outrigger. I found that since photographing bird rookeries, I am
missing a high vantage point afforded in a larger flats boat or when standing. On occasion, I have been
able to stand in the water on Biscayne Bay while photographing the rookery, but this is not always
possible. I thought about taking a ladder out there and setting it up in the water, but haven't got the
nerve yet to try it. So, I decided that I might be able to stand still in the boat while holding the camera
or using a monopod if I had outriggers attached to the canoe. I am hoping to experiment with this soon.
I can practice macro photography from the canoe. Biscayne
Bay has several creeks where these large female golden silk
spiders reside.
Bay has several creeks where these large female golden silk
spiders reside.
The mud flats in Florida Bay near Flamingo are inaccessible
to most boats when at low tide. But I can paddle around the
flats and come within close distance of the numberous birds
that flock there in large numbers, such as these skimmers.
to most boats when at low tide. But I can paddle around the
flats and come within close distance of the numberous birds
that flock there in large numbers, such as these skimmers.
Above are a few typical scenes from Biscayne Bay. At low
tide, wading birds are abundant. During the winter months,
Portuguese man-o-wars can be seen floating near the
shoreline. The isolated mangroves growing out of the shallow
waters can be interesting subjects to photograph.
tide, wading birds are abundant. During the winter months,
Portuguese man-o-wars can be seen floating near the
shoreline. The isolated mangroves growing out of the shallow
waters can be interesting subjects to photograph.
In the summer, roseate spoonbills rest on this low-tide
exposed oyster bar. In the winter, it is the white pelicans that
reside on the same bar. Notice the white pelican with the
summer flock of roseates, an unusual site.
exposed oyster bar. In the winter, it is the white pelicans that
reside on the same bar. Notice the white pelican with the
summer flock of roseates, an unusual site.
Back To HOME
